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Textured Surface Film How-to
John A. Nielsen

Thousands of square feet of textured walls and columns in arenas, stadiums, restaurants, malls and other public spaces are coming to life thanks to 3M's new graphic system for textured surfaces.

When applied with 3M's new tools and techniques, 3M Scotchcal Graphic Film for Textured Surfaces IJ8624 conforms and molds over indoor and outdoor textured, painted or unpainted surfaces such as concrete block, brick, tile, poured cement and stucco—including most mortar lines. Yet the product is flexible enough to wrap around columns.

The film is protected with 3M Scotchcal Luster Overlaminate 8524.

3M's film for textured surfaces is a faster and more economical alternative to comparably-sized hand painted or expensively framed and hung graphics. Film allows you to create photo-realistic images — something that just isn't possible with paint on textured surfaces.

One of the challenges to successful textured-surface applications is getting the film and adhesive to conform and adhere to the irregular texture of many substrates. 3M has met this challenge by combining conformable and durable graphic films, a new adhesive and new, easy to use tools with effective application techniques.

Tools and Equipment

3M's application process employs several 3M-designed foam roller tools that are used in combination with a heat gun in the successful application of the film to a textured surface.

The general application technique is simple — heat the film and immediately roll it with one of 3M's tools to make the film conform to the surface and maximize adhesive contact. The foam used in the tools is designed to withstand high heat; standard foam paint rollers will melt immediately.

Equipment required includes an electronically-controlled, high temperature, heat gun, heat-resistant gloves and an air release tool. Also useful for preparing the surface is a stiff brush and appropriate cleaning solution. The following 3M tools are specifically designed for this application:

• The 3M Textured Surface Tool TSA-1 tool is the largest of the foam rollers and is used for general application of larger areas.
• The 3M Textured Surface Tool TSA-2 tool is smaller and narrower and designed for use in corners and mortar lines.
• The 3M Textured Surface Tool TSA-3 tool is designed specifically for edges where the graphic meets a wall, ceiling or other obstruction.

Textured Surfaces

How does someone determine if a graphic film will stick to a painted dry wall, concrete block, glazed tile or brick wall? And how does one prepare it to make sure it's ready to receive a graphic? Let's start by defining the types of wall materials recommended for 3M's textured-surface system.

All texture or surface roughness has a profile that can be described by height, depth, width, shape and so on. Raised texture has protrusions that rise above a fairly flat surface. Recessive texture has depressions that sink below the top surface. Combination texture has both protrusions and depressions, often with no discernible flat or top surface.

Brick is a kiln-dried, hard clay surfacing material that is usually patterned or textured, producing a moderately rough combination texture.

Concrete masonry or concrete block, as the names suggests, is made of concrete. The texture can vary greatly. Some concrete blocks have a relatively smooth top surface but a recessed texture.

Stucco is a mixture of Portland cement and water that dries to a very hard surface that can range from rounded, moderate texture to ragged, heavy texture.

Tile, like brick, is a kiln-dried hard clay surfacing material, but is generally much thinner than brick and either glazed or unglazed. This type of material usually has little or no raised texture and any texture is often rounded and smooth.

Mortar is a mixture that fills the spaces between building materials such as blocks and bricks. The configuration of mortar lines, from texture to width and depth, can vary greatly and is an important consideration in applying film to textured surfaces.

Mortar line types seen most often include Flush, Raked and Struck. Flush mortar lines are the easiest to deal with because there is little or no stress placed on the film to conform. Raked and struck mortar lines both require the film to stretch, conform and adhere.

In most cases, 3M recommends that film not be stretched into mortar lines deeper than one-eighth of an inch.

However, for very wide mortar lines, film can be successfully conformed to greater depths with careful application. Additional rolling with the TSA-2 or TSA-3 tools may be necessary to set the film to the bottom of the deep channel.

To test the suitability of the textured surface for graphics, apply at least an 8.5x11-inch sample to the desired area. For particularly challenging applications, doing a test application and checking after 14 days is recommended.

Surface Preparation

Preparing the surface for application is another important step. Freshly painted walls usually need to cure for at least 30 days to ensure a good bond. Applying an adhesive material to under-cured paint may result in premature failure of the graphic or considerable paint damage when the graphic is removed.

3M's textured-surface film has gray adhesive, so it provides excellent hiding power. If applying a new graphic over an existing one, be sure the existing graphic is thoroughly adhered. Inspect it for loose edges, bubbles and other evidence of incomplete bond. Contaminants such as dirt, grease, and food spills on the substrate create a barrier between the adhesive and the wall.

For most walls, washing the substrate with a recommended cleaning solution is necessary. Avoid soaps or preparations that contain waxes, oils or lotions because they impair graphic adhesion.

Common solutions for general soil are one ounce of synthetic detergent per gallon of lukewarm water. For grease or oil, a solution of trisodium phosphate (TSP) and lukewarm water prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions is typical.

It is also a good practice to brush off any loose material, especially from mortar lines.

Using Tools and Techniques

There is an art to applying graphic film to textured walls that includes balancing the amount of heat, speed of application and pressure applied. Before installing a graphic, perform some practice installations on a variety of painted or sealed textured surfaces.

It is essential to use heat to warm the film and adhesive immediately before applying pressure so the application tool makes it conform easily to the texture. A good initial speed is about two-inches per second. That can change depending on the film, texture and tool temperature, but concentrating too much heat for too long in one area can cause the film to melt or blister.

If too low a temperature is used or one moves too fast, the film doesn't become pliable and will not conform to the texture. It is important to use the correct heat, speed and pressure while first applying the graphic. Reheating lifted film rarely produces satisfactory results.

The width, depth and profile of a mortar line, as discussed earlier, are additional important considerations.

Safety Considerations

The following safety precautions are recommended to help prevent personal injury or property damage:

• Use grounded electrical outlets.
• Ensure that any electrical cords are in good condition.
• Always protect the tool hand with a heat-resistant glove.
• Use the entire arm, not just the wrist, to apply pressure to the rollers to reduce physical stress and fatigue.
• Never reach above shoulder height or too far left or right when using the heat gun to avoid physical stress or dropping the tool.
• Finally, use caution when putting the gun down. A hot gun can scorch or melt some substrates and may ignite flammable materials in the area.

Hanging the Graphic

Hanging the graphic film in preparation for installation isn't much different than in any other installation. For complete details, please refer to 3M Instruction Bulletin 5.37.

• Plan the layout before beginning to save time, frustration and money.
• The best layout allows the film to bridge all mortar lines by at least one inch. For a standard installation, the top corner of the panel should be at least one inch from mortar lines horizontally and vertically.
• Consider whether the graphic will be going around a corner or over an opening and plan so the edges are in the least vulnerable place.
• Narrower panels are easier to work with, especially when working from a ladder.
• Use a hinged method to hang the panel.
• Although technically not a positionable film, the texture of the surface can mean that there is very little initial adhesive-to-surface contact and it can be moved around.
• For deep textures, set the edge of the graphic by gently heating and rolling the edge, always considering where the air will escape as you work. This improves the appearance of the graphic.
• As the liner is removed, the film stretches a little. To make alignment of each panel very easy, use this technique: pull down about a foot of liner, let go of the film, allow it to relax for a few seconds and then continue in that manner.
• Fingers may be used to tack the film lightly to the substrate. Avoid broad sweeping movements with the hands.
• Bubbles or wrinkles in the film are rarely a problem since it will be heated and shrink to conform to the texture.

Full Application

Let's take a look at the proper techniques for doing a full application.

Position the heat gun at the top center of the graphic to set the edge. Roll the perimeter with firm pressure and a cooler heat gun and light pressure to increase the adhesion at the edge, being careful not to seal the edge preventing air escape.

The amount of heat and pressure required is a function of the roughness of the surface — good heating and moderate pressure are important for rough surfaces, but for relatively smooth surfaces, lightly rolling the cold film is often sufficient. Move at a steady rate — at about two-inches per second — keeping the roller level. Do not pick the roller up until it has gone past the edge of the film.

Take a moment to observe how well the film is conforming to the surface. If there are indications of blisters or burning, do the next pass a little faster. If there are bubbles, slow down a little and apply more pressure.

Continue working the graphic, center-to-edge, center-to-edge. If not standing on a ladder, work on the seam line from top to bottom. If standing on a ladder, work down the graphic until stepping off and then work on the unapplied seam line. Finish applying the panel by working from the seam all the way across to the other edge, overlapping each stroke by about 30 percent.

Cleaning and Removal

Maintaining the graphic is easy.

If a film overlaminate has been used, use a cleaner designed for high-quality painted surfaces. The cleaner must be wet, non-abrasive, without strong solvents and have a pH value of between three and 11—neither strongly acidic nor alkaline.

If the graphic has a clear coat, use a wet, non-abrasive cleaner containing no solvents, no alcohol and a pH value also of three and 11.

The 3M film for textured surfaces may be removed from many substrates. Pick on the upper corner of the graphic to get started. Applying heat and using the tip of an air release tool will help. Aim the heat gun at the face of the graphic close to the lifted edge and start warming a small area. Peel back the film at about 180 degrees.

John A. Nielsen is a Senior Product Development Specialist with 3M Graphics Market Center. To learn more abut applying 3M Scotchcal Graphic Film for Textured Surfaces IJ8624, or to receive a DVD with installation instructions, call the 3M Graphics Market Center Tech Service Hotline at 800-328-3908. Product and Instruction Bulletins, which discuss the products and techniques in detail, are available at www.3mgraphics.com.